Monday, June 28, 2010
Mexico! Mexico! - Mwanza, Malawi
Sunday, June 27, 2010
USA! USA! - Harare, Zimbabwe
We settle into this backpacker's lodge in the northern suburbs, which was good to watch with other Americans since all the Africans and every other nation were supporting Ghana. Dumi was pulling for Ghana, Oli for USA, and Ivan in typical Kriol fashion, was split in the middle. It was a dazzler, all of us were completely enthralled for 120 minutes, but the Americans couldn't pull it out.
Saturday, June 26, 2010
Spain v. Chile - Musina, South Africa
Friday, June 25, 2010
Italy v. Slovakia - Alexandria township (Jozi)
On Thursday our new friend Muzi took us out to his township of Alexandria to show us his neighborhood. Alexandra is definitely where you feel more like you are in Africa again and away from the World Cup international scene. Folks are hanging out on the sidewalks and in alleyways, the smell of people making dinner is in the air and kids are everywhere playing soccer (or some other street game that involves stacking buckets and trying not to let your opponent knock 'em down).
Muzi takes us to this local spot where he and his friends go to hang out and watch matches. It is a big space. We walk in through this dark foyer that opens up to this expansive space with multiple screens, tons of tables and seating and a large loft with a two-floor bar in the middle. It's four in the afternoon so it's pretty empty, people do work after all. However, the place broadcasts the Italy v. Slovakia game like it's at full capacity. We have to yell and sit close to converse.
The game ends up being a doozy and more folks arrive in the last and best 20 minutes of the game. At every goal, which were many at this point, you can hear reactions of oohs and aahs from the other patrons coming from every corner. When the game ends the few of us in our area are pretty satisfied with the game we've witnessed and equally unaffected by the result. Although Italy going out in the first round is something to talk about, it appears South Africa is a bit deflated by the Bufana Bufana's departure from the tournament.
Thursday, June 24, 2010
England v. Slovenia - Randburg, Jozi
On Wednesday we couldn't find the USA game anywhere since the England game was playing at the same time. So we plopped ourselves in a local chain restaurant called KEG with a very nice sized crowd of English folks…we actually felt like we were in England as we sat in a beer garden space and were serenaded with English songs like "God save the Queen." It was fun, we cheered on the English side but every once and a while we'd start saying, "U-S-A U-S-A" under our breaths to try to cast some juju for our countrymen. Unfortunately, we went the whole game without seeing or hearing how our boys were doing, so we were very excited to find out in the post game show that we had won in an exhilarating display. Lucky for us replays are a dime a dozen in these parts so we did catch the match later on.
Wednesday, June 23, 2010
Mexico v. Uruguay - Rustenburg
We decided to take advantage of the city-to-city bus transportation that was available by riding from Jozi to Rustenburg in what should have been called the Mexican supporters' bus. The running joke after any small contretemps was that the driver was from Uruguay.
Rusty is a small town rich from platinum mining and boasts a small tourist attraction you might have heard of called Sun City (think Las Vegas meets Disneyland). The locals gained a 20% share of the mining and built this small cozy stadium for the World Cup. The weather is nice and the Mexican contingent is far more numerous and boisterous than Uruguayans. Unfortunately, the tide as turned against Mexico as Uruguay has gained the South African support. Turns out the Bufana Bufana path to the second round needs a big loss from Mexico. So much for the South Africa -Mexico love affair.
Our seats are right on the center pitch and we're baffled at how we were able to score these tickets. We are definitely in the Mexico rowdy zone. The party is on in the stands with chants, dancing, and the obligatory vuvu belching. The game is pretty tame with Mexico dominating possession and Uruguay lurking dangerously on the counter. It's really fun to focus on Diego Forlan and see him put in a day's work; an inspiration to all average folks of what hard work can accomplish. The party in the stands goes up a few notches when South Africa goes up 2-0 against France.
Right before halftime a Mexican supporter runs across the field and he is completely ignored until he reaches the other end of the field and-- BAM!!!-- body slammed from his blind side by the security forces. Don't mess with a country that hails a rich rugby tradition. He should have taken his clothes off to make it more memorable.
Mexico concedes a wonderful goal to Luiz Suarez who up until now I hadn't even noticed he was on the field. After numerous calls from the fans, Chicharrito finally comes on but he's a bust. The coach needs to start him and needs to find someone else to start for Salcido, the weak link on this team. Despite numerous opportunities for scoring, Mexico can't get it done. The Mexican crowd is wild nonetheless; countless attempts to start a Mexican Wave go unsuccessful but a certain profane cheer is a hit and now even small South African children are yelling with the crowd, "Ahhhhhh...Puto!"
The game ends without an equalizer, but it doesn't stop the large Mexican contingent from making a ruckus as the Mexicans make it to the next round. Another beautiful day in World Cup Land, even the weather was beautiful for us this day. We stay late in the stadium, taking in the atmosphere and enjoying the evening sky. But, soon enough only the partying Uruguayans in one far corner of the stadium are all that remain so we depart for our party bus back to Jozi.
Tuesday, June 22, 2010
Jozi Fan Parks - hit and miss


(Pictured: us at the Montecasino fan park)The past two nights we have been checking out the official FIFA fan parks- designated big screen locations around town for fans to come together to view matches. The first night we went to this area called Montecasino, set up like a mini casino that one might find in Reno but much nicer. We arrive after dark so it was quite a shock to walk indoors and find ourselves in daytime Tuscany. After walking a ways through shops, a casino and restaurants, we reach the fan park. It is set outdoors in a big piazza-like setting with a performance stage and huge screen on one end and many rows of chairs lined up throughout. As we make our way in there is a musician performing traditional rhythms on various stringed instruments and the crowd is pretty small. But, as game time nears people start to pack the place with a surprisingly large number of Ivorian support. Although most people believe Brasil will win it all, folks are really hoping for more African representation in the knock out round.
As kickoff approaches the DJ, go-go girls and fire dancers get started and we begin dancing to really great bad techno. All the songs you'd expect to hear for such an occasion were thrown in the mix- the type of songs to rev up a diverse crowd.There are isolated dance parties everywhere; dancing warms the soul and the body in near freezing temperatures.
The game starts with the screen counting down then followed by fireworks. That was probably the most exciting time of the game as Brasil dominated Cote d' Ivoire, after every score (even the double hand ball one) fireworks would go off and cameramen and TV crews would crowd the most vividly dressed Brasileiros. Drogba's goal showed some signs of hope but not enough to keep the cold Africans around to watch the end of yet another dismal display by an African team.
The next night we headed to the Sandton area fan park at Innsfree Park to watch the Spain v. Honduras game. This turned out to be quite a bust as no one was there. You'd have to crazy to sit out in a city park in this freezing weather, but there we were! Those of us stranded there packed ourselves into this small tented area, which played out to be our own personal freezing living room with a 12 x 10 foot screen and about forty random, shivering friends. We made the most of our situation by watching Spain finally look a little like Spain. And, we had fun listening to the Mexican girls next to us yell "GUAPO!" every time Navas or David Villa would get a full faced screen shot.
After the game we went back to Sandton City to warm up and eat dinner at Nelson Mandela Square (where you can find a giant bronze statue of Nelson Mandela). Also notable because the library is right across a courtyard from the statue. Anyway, we bring this trip up purely to let you know we almost literally ran into Italian footballer, Zambrotta. We were looking for food and he was dodging reporters, we all have needs that require expediency.
Tomorrow is our Mexico game, we just need to figure out how to get to Rustenburg.
Monday, June 21, 2010
Johannesburg - More tickets please!
We were undeterred by the news that we couldn't get tickets to any Jozi game because luckily there are stadiums in neighboring cities that are playing equally exciting games such as USA vs. Algeria and Mexico vs. Uruguay. Lucky for us, the World Cup hasn't been easy for any team except maybe Brazil so these final games of the first round are shaping up to be very exciting.
So...with the USA game sold out, we're pretty excited to inform you that we're heading back to another MEXICO game!!! This time, we are up against the dominant looking Uruguay which is looking to be a hell of a game. I'm so happy we are equipped with all this Mexico gear. Look out for us tomorrow on Tuesday somewhere near the pitch. We bought tickets without knowing where they are located in the stadium, so this should be interesting. The FIFA woman asked us, "the only tickets for three seats are on the pitch, is that okay??"" Umm...please explain how those wouldn't be okay?
Even better is that many South Africans are also pulling for Mexico to beat Uruguay. The Bufana (SA team name) supporters have figured out the math to get them into the second round, although most don't really believe it will happen. As they are saying here: Bufana plans to exit the World Cup with dignity. If Mexico beats Uruguay by 2 and South Africa beats France by 2 (or something like that), then they're in!
What's awesome is the Mexican - South African camaraderie going on out here. Whenever a Mexican is interviewed they can't gush enough about how nice and friendly people are here and how they want the Bufana to join them in the next round.
Sunday, June 20, 2010
Sunday in Johannesburg, South Africa
Sorry for the delay in posts but we were literally on the road from Monday until Thursday, traversing 2000 kilometers to get from Mzuzu, Malawi to Polokwane, South Africa. On Thursday when we arrived in South Africa someone asked where we were coming from and we said, "Malawi," then they asked when we left and we responded, "Monday," to which the person started laughing.
In general, we don't have easy connection at all times so we write and then post once we get connection. Today is Fathers Day, happy day Dad and all dads across the land! You're the best.
Since the game on Thursday we've been lying low and recovering from the excitement. Ivan got a bit sick from being underdressed out in the cold and then showered by beer, so now that we are in Johannesburg we've been lying low at Dumi's sister's house and watching every game. We are trying to get ourselves back in order. We're currently watching the Paraguay vs. Slovakia in a cafe in Randberg, Johannesburg, contemplating how we might score tickets to tonight's Brasil v. Cote d'Ivoire match. Should be great if we can do it.
Anyway, we are attempting to upload some videos from the Mexico/France match. Fingers crossed we can make it happen.
Friday, June 18, 2010
Road Trip: Thursday (6/17) - Masvingo (Zimbabwe) to Polokwane (South Africa) 500 km
We cross into South Africa today and there's a lot of security but everyone is super friendly and in a excellent mood even if the weather is a little nippy. The roads are excellent and we cruise into Polokwane. There's traffic with French and Mexican fans all over. Polokwane is a small town but very lively.
We miss watching both early games although we were able to catch some of the matches on the radio, but we're going to watch our first game live today. We get our tickets, buy gloves, and look for vuvuzelas. We get to our room and get ready for the big night.
And what a night it is!!!! Good lord, if you love the beautiful game, you must make it to a World Cup game some time in your life. We weren't quite prepared for such a beautiful thing. We had some anxiety getting to the stadium and trying not to lose each other in the crowded mania. But, once we settled into our seats, you couldn't knock the smiles from our faces. The stadium is beautiful and the crowd was in a such a party mode with both French and Mexican fans mingling freely. Not to mention the South Africans in attendance that we recruited to join the Mexican support. Man, there's really nothing like being at the stadium and looking around to see the rainbow of people. The songs, the dancing, the being happy are all completely too difficult to describe, I hope the videos upload so you can see for yourselves. The Mexicans outnumbered the French, we heard a statistic that we populated the 35,000 crowd with 30,000 Mexico supporters. The incredible party mood in the stadium only got better as the game went on.
If you hadn't figured it out already, Mexicans know how to party- but the celebration after the goals was purely Mexican-style. When we scored beer went flying everywhere, we were seriously showered by beer and song and cheers of "ME-Xi-CO! ME-Xi-CO! ME-Xi-CO!" It was sooooo fun. At times I would forget that we were in South Africa with so many Mexicans around, but then I'd look around and see the South Africans joining in the chants, or.... completely disturbed by being showered with beer and choosing to leave. Not everyone can handle Mexicans. After the game the party continues with lots of dancing and chanting. The French supporters were pissed off with the poor play of their team, but were cordial enough to talk about it.
After such an amazing night, we have decided to make a real effort to get tickets to more games, we're addicted. We'll keep you posted. Signing off after a beautiful night.
Wednesday, June 16, 2010
Road Trip: Wednesday (6/16) - Pumpkin to Masvingo (Zimbabwe) 500 km
Tuesday, June 15, 2010
Road Trip: Tuesday (6/15) - Lilongwe (Malawi) to Pumpkin (Zimbabwe) by way of Mozambique 500 km
Monday, June 14, 2010
Road Trip: Monday (6/14) - Mzuzu to Lilongwe (Malawi) 500 km
Sunday, June 13, 2010
Serbia v. Ghana + Germany v. Australia - Mzuzu, Malawi Day 3
Saturday, June 12, 2010
Nigeria v. Argentina + USA v. England - Nkhata Bay, Malawi - June 12
Sorry for the delay, we've had some power issues and/or connection issues up here in the northern part of Malawi.
The second day of our tour started off well...we slept in and got close to getting on the right timezone.
We watched the first game at home with Dumi's dad, the same man who was uninterested about the World Cup the day before was front and center at the TV to watch South Korea beat Greece 2 - 0.
We were determined to get to Lake Malawi's beautiful Nkhata Bay for the day's games, one of Oli and Dumi's favorite spots on the globe. The area had been without power the day before so folks were anxious to catch up with the games.
The town center was full of people but they were excited about something else: a real football tournament between local teams vying to make it to the regional level (see picture).
Did they know Argentina was playing and the Messi-ah was strutting his stuff on the world 's biggest stage? They did know but they had other priorities. Awesome.
We watched Argentina vs Nigeria game at a cine-sports bar called Golden Dog, aka, Anfield. When we walked in it looked like a small crowded bar with the game on a small TV in the corner. But, upon deeper entry into the cavernous bar was a door that led to a much larger and darker cement theater-like space. This had a cinema atmosphere with an entrance fee and a large projection of the game. The crowd was seated upon rows and rows of wooden benches and was clearly pro-Nigeria. But they weren't immune to Messi's magic as the room was abuzz every time he touched the ball. Toward the end of the match, folks were definitely getting more annoyed with the missed opportunities upon which the Nigerians could not capitalize.
We were happy to watch Messi almost do his thing and all in all it was a good match.
As we had a couple of hours to kill on the lake, we headed out of town and out to the more touristy spots on the quiet side of Nkhata Bay. We walked along the beach until we found an accommodation televising the pre-show to the USA v. England game in their restaurant bar.
This location was quite sleepy outside as fishermen were heading out to catch, but inside the locals had already parked it in the best spots and were flipping through football magazines when we arrived. This lanky, middle aged American guy was obviously eager to watch the game as his seat was prominently placed in front of the smallish TV. We took up some less-than ideal stools next to the bar, but took advantage of our position to drink beer and eat homemade chicken, greens and rice. At halftime two kids who had fallen asleep were kicked out and voila! we instantly had the best seats in the house.
Whatta game for the Yanks! Although some folks sported English jerseys, the crowd was evenly split between teams. And, despite our inability to understand the Chichewan dialogue spoken around the room, I think we were all pretty impressed with the American team. Go USA!
Friday, June 11, 2010
South Africa v. Mexico - Lilongwe, Malawi - June 11
We arrived in Malawi about an hour late, which meant we had only 2.5 hours to get through immigration, meet Dumi's family and make our way to a television. Priorities! We collected a posse of the Banda family and made our way to a hotel in the capital city of Lilongwe. We were feeling like maybe we had found a country that was unexcited about the world cup because both Dumi's family as well as the people working at the airport all seemed a bit unconcerned that the first game of the first African World Cup was about to kick off.
Thursday, June 10, 2010
Cool link
Opening concert from Addis Abeba, Ethiopia
We landed in Ethiopia this evening, first stop in Africa on our tour de World Cup. We love this place, we already have made many friends from all around the globe.
Sunday, June 6, 2010
The beginning
Our road trip begins when we land in Malawi at noon on June 11th. First stop, a crowded bar in Lilongwe (capital city) to watch the opening game. From there we plan to drive through Malawi, Mozambique and Zimbabwe--stopping for the France vs Mexico match in Polokwane on June 17th—continuing to Johannesburg and on to Swaziland.
We will watch every game on TV, wherever we are, taking in the World Cup experience with whoever we find at the moment of the game. The World Cup is hosted by South Africa, but our view is that it is happening all over the continent and it affects all of Africa. For all intents and purposes, this is Africa's World Cup!
We live and work in the Bay Area and have extensive life experience in Africa (born, raised and/or worked), but most importantly—we love football (soccer)!! Our perspective is one where we feel at ease with both the international football community and amongst everyday Africans. We know international football: names, teams, history and lore, country playing styles, etc. We aren’t shy: we will find where the people are and talk to them about life and football. We can communicate in seven languages, we'll get pictures with fans, events... and we'll show the world how Africa parties, hehehe!!
So, the countdown is on. 5 days to go. Come back and follow these 90 exciting minutes from the most exciting event in the world.

